An Atelier Guide to Sample Approval & Quality Control
A plated sample can look convincing. The gold is warm, the finish catches the light, and the component appears ready for production.
Has the component itself been evaluated, or has the surface finish simply made underlying defects harder to assess?
In custom handbag hardware development, reviewing an unfinished (raw) off-tool sample can be a valuable decision point—particularly for multi-component assemblies, chain hardware, and projects where geometry or function still needs to be confirmed.
Reviewing the raw sample first allows the team to identify issues before committing to finishing, which may otherwise add cost to subsequent revisions. It does not replace the need to inspect the plated sample; each stage answers a different question.
01 — WHAT WE INSPECT ON THE RAW SAMPLE
An unplated sample allows our development team to evaluate the component's underlying geometry and construction.
- Drawing Dimensions: Critical dimensions are measured against the approved technical drawing.
- Tooling Characteristics: Parting lines, excess material, and visible surface or material defects are reviewed in raw metal before plating baths can conceal them.
- Fit & Articulation: For a chain assembly, connected components are checked for alignment, movement, and interference.
The objective is to identify issues that are easier to evaluate before surface finishing begins.
02 — WHAT CHANGES AFTER PLATING?
Once the component moves to surface finishing, the evaluation shifts toward the finished surface and the component's performance after finishing.
- Surface Integrity: Inspecting for water marks, scratches, blistering, and visible surface defects under suitable lighting.
- Color & Finish: Reviewing the plated appearance against the approved finish reference under standardized D65 viewing conditions.
- Functional Recheck: Checking relevant moving or assembled features to confirm that the finished component still operates as intended.
Raw-sample approval and plated-sample approval serve different purposes. A component that meets dimensional requirements before finishing must still be evaluated after plating.
03 — VALIDATING CRYSTAL-SET HARDWARE
For crystal-set handbag hardware, the review includes both appearance and crystal retention.
- Crystal Backing: For transparent crystals, checking whether the reverse side has a silver backing layer. Where required by the project, a white backing coating may be considered if the layer is absent.
- Adhesive & Retention: Adhesive selection depends on the component structure and application.
- Project-Specific Drop Tests: In our current development practice, crystal trays used in chain assemblies are tested with three drops from 75 cm onto a hard surface. For hinged handbag closures with set crystals, the project-specific test uses three drops from 1 m onto a hard surface.
These are project-specific validation procedures, not universal industry standards. Test results should be assessed against the relevant component's agreed acceptance criteria, including crystal retention and applicable functional checks.
04 — THE FOUR-STAGE APPROVAL SEQUENCE
STAGE 1 — RAW SAMPLE REVIEW
Evaluate dimensions, geometry, parting lines, and construction before finishing where appropriate.
STAGE 2 — PLATED SURFACE REVIEW
Inspect color and surface quality, including visible water marks, scratches, and blistering.
STAGE 3 — FUNCTIONAL & RETENTION CHECKS
Verify relevant movement, closure operation, assembly fit, and crystal retention according to the project requirements.
STAGE 4 — PRODUCTION MASTER APPROVAL
Confirm the approved physical sample and its supporting specifications as the reference for production.
05 — FROM SAMPLE APPROVAL TO PRODUCTION
A sample demonstrates what a component can look like. An approved production master establishes the reference that subsequent production must follow.
At WOOJIN ATELIER, the purpose of staged review is to identify issues at the right point in development, clarify what has been approved, and carry those decisions forward into production.
Learn more about our development process.
A sample demonstrates what a component can look like.
An approved production master establishes the standard that subsequent production must follow.